Garment



FIP8304 OR 29198v577 /vvul UH HUUI H April 23, 1940. 5 5 GRAHAM, JR 2,198,577

GARMENT Filed June 22, 1938 WWW A TTORNEYS.

Patented Apr. 23, 1940 GARMENT Edward S. Graham, Jr., Pasadena. Calif, assignor to Talon, Inc., a corporation of Pennsylvania Application June 22, 1938, Serial No. 215,141

3 Claims.

My invention relates to garments and more particularly to jackets, coats or sweaters equipped with slide fasteners of the divisible end type. My invention is an improvement upon the basic construction disclosed in the Yengst Patent 2,093,792.

In the Yengst patent the advantages of fastening the bottom ends of the slide fastener to the garment by means of flexible elements or flaps free to bend away from the front of the garment, are pointed out. In the manufacture of garments with these free flexing portions there has been a problem which has been solved heretofore only by considerable number of extra pieces and operations.

One of the objects of my invention is to embody the principle of the Yengst patent in a coat or jacket in which the inner facing is made of a single piece eliminating the necessity of having an extra operation in splicing on a separate piece of the lower facing.

Another object is to provide means on the single facing strip for designating the exact position in which the fastener should be sewn, the length of the lower facing, and the correct matching of the facing to the front.

Still another object is to provide an improved method of making a garment embodying the principle of the Yengst patent so that the operations will follow in a natural and easy sequence with the material placed in a correct way in the sewing machine for the most simplified handling.

In the accompanying drawing I have shown for purposes of illustration one embodiment which my invention may assume in practice. In the drawing:

Fig. 1 illustrates a jacket embodying my invention;

Fig. 2 shows one of the early steps in making the front construction;

Fig. 3 shows a subsequent step;

Fig. 4 shows a still later step in the making of one side of the jacket;

Fig. 5 shows the final step;

Fig. 6 is a longitudinal vertical section through the facing adjacent the lower end of the slide fastener; and

Fig. 7 is a cross-section through one side of the garment front adjacent the lower end of the slide fastener.

The jacket illustrated has right and left front portions 8, 9 respectively, the usual sleeves l0. collar II and if desired, a belt 12. The jacket extends considerably below the belt line procealed.

My improved method of applying the slide fastener stringers and the facing strips will now be described.

In Fig. 2, the facing strip I6 is cut to a length equal to the length of the garment front plus twice the desired length of the flexible flap ll.

A notch 18 in the edge of this strip indicates the terminal point of the fastener stringer and the notch i9 is spaced from the notch l8 a distance equal to the desired length of the flap H.

The fastener stringer 20 is then placed on the edge of the strip l6 in the position shown with its lower end at the notch 18.

The strip is then doubled back and again reversely folded back at the notch l9 and the edge is fixed in such position by a row of stitching 2!.

Previously a slide fastener may have been attached to the edge of the strip by a row of stitching 22 extending throughout the length of the fastener. The facing strip and slide fastener stringer are then ready for application to the garment front. in Fig. 3.

This operation is shown The assembly is placed in position with the flap l1 projecting free and the slide fastener stringer hidden.

In this position it is attached to the edge of the garment front by a row of stitching 23 extending from the bottom up to the notch l9, and another row of stitching 24 extending from the top down to the flap H. The next operation is to turn the assembly inside out so that the fastener elements project outwardly and all raw edges of material are hidden,

as shown in Fig. 4.

After this is done a cross row of stitches 25 may be placed at the lower end of the flap. In order to make the facing of the coat hang better, it is also preferable to put in a row of stitches 26 which extends diagonally across the flap l1 and through only the facing strip. This provides a triangular shaped flap 21 which is free to flex away from the body portion of the garment so that it can be easily grasped by the wearer in placing the parts of the separable end fitting 15 together.

As completed it will be seen in Fig. 6, that the single piece of facing material l6 extends downwardly over the outer surface of the flap, upwardly over the inner surface of the flap, and again downwardly to form the facing for the lower end of the garment. In addition to the advantages pointed out above. my invention aids in lining up the two fronts. that is to say, there is less danger of one side being higher than the other in the finished garment.

While I have shown and described in this application one embodiment which my invention may assume in practice, it will be understood that this embodiment is for the purposes of illustration and description, and that various other forms may be devised within the scope of my invention as set forth in the appended claims.

What I claim as my invention is:

1. In a garment of the class described, right and left body fronts. a slide fastener of the divisible end type, the lower end of which is located a substantial distance above the bottom of the garment, the garment having narrow facing strips on the under side of the right and left fronts, the portions of such facing strips above the lower end of the slide fastener being herein called upper facings and those portions below the slide fastener being herein called lower facings, the lower terminal portions of the slide fastener stringers being attached to flexible flaps free to bend away from the garment fronts, the upper facings above the flaps, the entire flaps and the lower facings each constituting a single uninterrupted strip of material.

2. In a garment of the class described having right and left fronts extending a substantial distance below the belt line, a slide fastener for uniting the fronts having a separable end fitting at its bottom end, the bottom end of the fastener being located a substantial distance above the bottom end of the garment. an inner facing strip which is attached directly to the garment front from the top to an intermediate point above the bottom end of the fastener. and thence downwardly to the bottom end of the fastener on the inner side of the fastener stringer and upwardly on the outer side of the fastener stringer to form a flexible flap and thence downwardly to form the facing for the lower end of the garment. the slide fastener stringer on at least one side being attached directly to the garment front to the point of attachment of said flap, and having its lower end attached to the flap.

3. The method of making jackets or coats of the type employing a slide fastener of the divisible end type in which the lower ends of the fastener stringers terminate in flaps free to flex away from the inner faces of the garments, which comprises first cutting a facing strip of a length suflicient to make the upper facing above the flap, the lower facing below the flap and the flap itself, providing means on said strip indi cating the location of the end of the fastener and the fold lines for making the flap, folding the strip over the end of a slide fastener stringer backwardly along the stringer and again reversely folding the strip to form the facing for the lower end of the garment whereby the upper facing, the two ply flap and lower facing are in one integral piece, stitching the slide fastener stringer in position on each facing, then attaching the slide fastener and facing assembly to the coat front and turning the construction inside out to conceal the raw edges and expose the fastener parts.

EDWARD S. GRAHAM, JR. 

